But more so in Limited than in Constructed, you should check if you still have enough colored mana sources for each of your main colors before doing this.
Ultimately, the decision on how many lands to put in your deck is a trade-off between mana screws and mana floods. Calculating the probability of hitting 4 land drops by turn 4 is relatively easy—anyone with a basic knowledge of probability theory should be able to replicate my results with a simple spreadsheet or program—but adequately weighing the relative impact of mana screws and floods is more difficult.
It also depends on your deck and the format. My subjective judgment of saying that Unless you have tracked the results of thousands of games in a certain matchup, there is no scientific reason why Besides, there are plenty of factors that should influence your land counts as well, such as whether or not your deck contains additional sources of mana e.
But no matter how many lands you play, mana screws and mana floods are part of the game. Little bits of variance give weaker players a chance to beat better players, lead to games that play out differently every time, add excitement to draw steps, and make for interesting deck building decisions. But while a little bit of randomness is fun, too much randomness is not. Likewise, if random Aetherworks Marvel spins decide too many games, then players may feel that the game is out of their hands.
Besides cycling lands, creaturelands, or land-search effects with an alternative ability in the late game, there are plenty of other cards that help mitigate mana flood, and these are invaluable tools for any Constructed deck. It is somewhat surprising to me that in comparison, there seem to be fewer cards that mitigate mana screw.
To some extent, the above-mentioned cards help a little bit because they incentivize people to add more lands to their deck. But mana screws still happen from time to time, even with inflated land counts, and then there are not many cards that can help you.
Just a random thought. Back to the math. For my second method of providing insight into the question of how many lands you need, I went over the last 3 Pro Tours Kaladesh , Aether Revolt , and Amonkhet. I grabbed all Top 8 deck lists and all deck lists outside of the Top 8 that went or better in Standard.
This yielded 78 deck lists in total. Active 5 months ago. Viewed k times. Improve this question. Zags DForck42 DForck42 3, 8 8 gold badges 35 35 silver badges 56 56 bronze badges. I always start with 38 mana producing lands and 6 mana producing artifacts then tweak from there.
I usually go with 40 lands -1 land for each 2 non-land mana sources as a base rule. Add a comment. Active Oldest Votes. Improve this answer. Ian Pugsley Ian Pugsley 4, 28 28 silver badges 38 38 bronze badges. I have a large number of accelerators, and lots of draw, and some of the lands are 2-mana lands, and there are a bunch of mana rocks. With all of that, I can run only 29 land and be just fine most games. Lots of card-draw means I can hit my drop every turn.
There's an aspect of risk management to Mana Rocks vs Lands, in this mass destruction for both is available and frequently played. Colors The more colors you have in a deck, the more land that deck will need - a mono color deck doesn't need specific lands to play their spells, my Marrow-Gnawer can get away with a lot less land than my Nekusar, the Mindrazer , which can get away with less than my General Tazri.
Card cost What's the average cost of your spells? Non-land mana sources Land isn't the only source of mana you can have in your deck - Elves can get by on less actual mana than some other deck types because so many elves themselves can tap for mana, both accelerating your deck and making more land coming less desirable or useful.
Other Ways to Play Paying the cost of a card isn't the only way to play it, and if your deck uses one of these strategies you won't need as many land on the field at once. General Strategy How are you planning to play your game? Conclusion There's no one solution, generally you'll want somewhere between a third and half of your deck to make mana, and most of that will likely be from land.
Andrew Andrew Make no mistake — there is a major learning curve when it comes to drafting, but almost every Magic player I have ever met and I have met hordes of them from all over the planet considers the pain to be worth the reward.
Magic has had various sorts of drafting over the years Rochester, Team Rochester, Solomon, Cube, etc. In order to have a Booster Draft, you need 3 things:. Players are seated randomly at the table. Once everyone has found their seats, each player opens his or her first booster pack, chooses one card from the pack, and puts it face-down on the table.
Once everyone has passed their packs, pick up the next pack located on your right , pick the best card for your deck from that pack and put it in your pile, and again pass it to the neighbor on your left. This process continues until all the cards from the pack have been picked.
You then get a review period to look at the cards you have picked and figure out what direction your deck is going typically this lasts 60 seconds. Once that ends, each player opens his or her next pack, picks a card, and passes the pack to the right Packs go left, right, left.
This continues as before until all cards from a pack have been chosen, and then you get another review period before opening the final pack, taking a card, and passing to your left again. One last thing to note about the draft procedure itself: Always keep your eyes on your own pack, and never try to look at what your neighbors might be drafting. This is cheating, and this sort of behavior can get you kicked out of a draft, disqualified from an event, or even banned from the DCI.
Once you have 45 cards in your pile, it is time to build your deck. Booster Draft rules allow you to add as much basic land as you want to your deck, and require that the deck you end up with be at least 40 cards. The standard number of lands in a draft deck is 17— Occasionally some decks will require more, while some formats or deck archetypes feature enough mana acceleration and cheap spells that they require less.
Limited manabases typically adhere to similar guidelines to what I laid out in my article on Constructed manabases. One of the things to keep in mind when doing the draft is that you need both creatures and spells to make things work. The most valuable spells you can draft are almost universally removal spells, which are at a premium in draft because you only get to play the ones that you can pick up as the packs go around.
Clever creatures like Anaba Shaman and Master Decoy are also quite useful and typically get drafted pretty early. Seemingly scruffy creatures see a lot of play and win a lot of games in Draft, which is one of the reasons why the format is both challenging and so much fun.
One of the ideas to keep in mind while you are drafting is the concept of signaling. Signaling is the process by which drafters often communicate to other drafters silently, because talking during the draft is not allowed in sanctioned events according to which cards and colors they are passing and which colors they are not. It is generally beneficial not to share colors with your neighbors, particularly the one who sits on your right, because he or she will be passing to you for two of the three packs.
Therefore, by paying attention to the signals they are sending, you can get a better read on what is taking place in the draft and try to steer your deck in the most beneficial direction. If the majority of your spells are over costing cost, add a land or 2 especially if multi colored and large casting costs.
If you are playing with multiple creatures that produce mana and have multiple mana fixers, then take out lands. Never go below 20 in a single color or 22 in a multi-colored deck. Playtest your deck with practice hand draws until it starts to feel right. Continually adjust your amount of land and color ratio as you play until you feel it is perfect.
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